One thing I was keen to experience on our winter trip was red Fuji, which I knew was common in winter. Supposedly one of the best spots for red Fuji, and mirror Fuji, is on the northern shore of Yamanakako, the largest of the five lakes. We arrived at Nagaike Water Park by 6 a.m. and found a group of photographers lining the lake, obviously a popular spot. When we arrived the sky was completely clear, and Mount Fuji was without her clouds too. Sadly as the sun rose above the eastern mountains clouds began to form and blocked a full red Fuji from developing. It was still a stunning sunrise, a freezing cold one though!

We stayed watching the sunrise and then walked around the shore before agreeing it was revenge match time for Chureito Pagoda. It was only 7am when we left, and with the pagoda being only 25 minutes away we were certain we’d beat the crew, and the crowds. We arrived to an empty car park and were pleased with our early start, but when we started our climb the vans arrived! It was then a race up to the pagoda, which we obviously lost to the vans haha. Luckily they parked before the pagoda area for a morning meeting, so we had clear shots! There was no one else up there when we arrived, and we could take our time getting the shots we wanted.

This was my first opportunity to really experience the new and improved viewing platform, as yesterday was a run-in and leave situation. Although it is great to have more space and a tiered system so I don’t have to hold the camera over my head anymore (like I did in 2017) but it meant cutting down the trees that used to frame the top of the shot, which is a shame.

While we were there the clouds started creeping up the northern side of Fuji, and while in Shimoyoshida I wanted another attempt at the famous street shot. I did visit this area in 2019 later in the day, which meant her peak was in shadows, not the best shot. As this spot is so famous there are numerous signs on the street telling people (in English) not to stand in the road or run into the road for photos. By the crossing, the best spot for shooting up the road, there were two guards placed to stop such behaviour. We didn’t intend to break these rules, and so they didn’t need to step in, you can easily get the shot from the pathway without interrupting traffic.

After getting the shot we were cold and hungry, having been out for several hours in the chilly morning, so we headed back to our shipping container to pack and check out, our time there was over. We were then “homeless” until 3pm when we could check in to our next accommodation around the lake.

As it was a clear day we weren’t going to waste it, and decided to head up the mountains once more. In 2019 we climbed up to Kurodake and walked along the ridgeline that hugs the north of Kawaguchiko. It was an easy hike as you could drive right up to the trailhead and didn’t have far to climb. Since then, just like at Chureito Pagoda, a new viewing platform had been built, and the road closed to anything but a bus. The bus only runs from May to around October due to the road conditions, and I can see why!

Due to the road closure, we had to park further down the mountain and follow the main road up to the road to get to the trail head. As the road hadn’t been open or used since autumn the year before it was very icy! Much more icy than anything on the Kawaguchiko side as the mountains themselves keep this side in shade for most of the day. We didn’t expect the road to be in such a condition, as we hadn’t seen any ice or snow in the area, so didn’t have our crampons. It was a mistake! The road was slick! Underneath the thin layer of snow was ice and black ice, so it was a long and slippery 2km walk to the trailhead. Things didn’t get much better at the trailhead as the stairs and slopes were icy too!

The top of the road had changed too, there was a little bus stop sign as well as toilets, which were closed for winter. After our slippery road climb, we started our slippery stairs climb up to the new viewing platform.

The area is called Fuji Twin Terrace as there are two terraces, one right by the top of the stairs, and the second a minute or two along the ridgeline to the east. They did a really good job of building wide areas, terraced like at Chureito pagoda, with handy camera holders for getting selfies of the view.

We spent some time up there alone and had our lunch while watching the amazing view. Once we had our fill we went back down the slippery paths, which seemed more treacherous than before, I slipped and almost fell under the stair-rail, but managed to catch myself, a lucky escape! We still had time to kill before check in so took our heavy car for an explore around the area. We knew there was a path up from near Oishi Park to the Kurodake ridgeline, so set out to discover it. We ended up driving through Oishi and up, and up, somehow ending up almost halfway up the mountain on a narrow road. It was very interesting driving up, it was clear the area had been developed in the past, and then abandoned. There were numerous empty platforms, intended for homes, that had been left to rust.

Very much alone we sent the drone up to see what we could see, and the views from here were beautiful. I love seeing different views of the area, from viewing platforms, and mountain peaks, and from the drone too. I am licensed to fly my drone in Japan if you intend to make sure you are and to follow the rules also.

After a nail-biting three-point turn we went back down the mountain to find our next accommodation, Cottage Pastorale. This was a new build of three terrace homes on the northern shore of Kawaguchiko, literally minutes from the lake shore. It was a lovely well-appointed home with perfect views of Fuji. We wandered across to the lakeside for sunset and then settled down on our futons ready for another early start.